La Grenouille, the faded but once fabled frog of East 52nd Street, cracked for good this week.
Owner Philippe Masson announced the closing on Instagram on Wednesday, posting that he was “moving on to explore new terrain and pursue other dreams,” adding that “a great deal of love, dedication and commitment went into making La Grenouille such an iconic destination.”
It marks the sour end of an era when bloody French restaurants known as “Le’s” and “La’s” dominated the haute cuisine scene with limited reservation lists, old dishes – pheasant under glass, anyone? —and women were given menus without prices.
Only La Grenouille retained something of the old tradition. Places such as La Seine, La Cote Basque and Le Hermitage closed long ago.
Philippe’s parents, Charles and Gisèle Masson, opened La Grenouille during a storm in 1962. John F. Kennedy was president and Robert Wagner was mayor.
The mirrored jewel box, filled with red and gold, became a nexus of New York’s power players, for whom the pricey ($185 minimum at last check) three-course menu was not a misstep. rounding.
Over the years, it attracted a host of celebrities and bold names, including Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett, Yves Saint Laurent, Diane Von Furstenberg, Bianca Jagger, Sidney Poitier, Elizabeth Taylor, Shirley MacLaine, Salvador Dali, Sophia Loren, David. Bowie, Truman Capote, Lee Radziwill, Madonna, Prince, Rod Stewart, Blake Lively, Adrien Brody and many more.
It was a “real who’s who of the most beautiful and famous in the world,” as Philippe wrote in the closing Instagram post.
Celebrity chef Daniel Boulud told the Post that, when he first came to NYC in 1982, “La Grenouille was the benchmark of French dining with its old-world elegance, charm, cuisine and service that no other restaurant could match. . It’s sad to see it close.”
On my first visit in 1998, I was amazed to meet Henry Kissinger, Gianni Agnelli and the most beautiful woman I had ever seen just six feet away.
Around the year 2000, Charles Masson Jr. — Philippe’s elegant older brother — took over the restaurant from Charles Sr. and Gisèle.
He was known for filling the dining room with more flowers than a botanical garden, and gave his parents’ old establishment a second wind, revamping the menu and making it more welcoming to younger patrons.
But the loss of snoots also made the place less special.
In 2014, Philippe replaced his brother as manager for reasons that remain unclear. Their mother passed away very soon. The brothers have taken him to court since then..
Locals said that all changed under Philippe, who could not be reached for comment.
He made La Grenouille into a sad burlesque of his former self, many longtime patrons said, turning it into a part-time nighttime cabaret to showcase his singing talent.
Although the beautiful flowers and frog legs remained, the old customers left in droves.
A doorman at a nearby Midtown hotel, who did not want to be identified, said: “No one has ever asked me for a reservation there in ten years — not one.”
The restaurant was closed for five of seven months last year, allegedly due to a gas leak and vacations.
Philippe finally reopened it last January to lessen the crowds and an air of impending doom, reinforced by rumors that he was trying to sell the building.
A usually empty outdoor shelter adds to the gloom.
La Grenouille still had one thing going for it – its magnificent dining room. No wonder no one wanted to eat on the street.
The vermin-infested structure still stands, a sad tombstone for what was once among the city’s most iconic and elegant restaurants.
But her time had long passed. It gave way to more modern, welcoming French restaurants such as Le Bernardin, Restaurant Daniel and Balthazar – as well as a younger class that includes fine spots such as Le Rock and Le Coucou.
Le Fin.
But Boulud, for one, is holding out hope.
“Maybe one day,” he said, “the frog will jump again.”
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Image Source : nypost.com